A sweet Parisian upside-down cake recipe for autumn fruits
From Cake Boy, an American baker in Paris
Hello! Hello!
We’re having a French moment over here at xoxoDorie. I know, I know, I’m almost always having a French moment, but this one runs wide and deep. We had the great chocolate-chili cookies from Cookie Love in Paris, and the publication of Ann Mah’s novel, JACQUELINE IN PARIS (such a delight – don’t miss it!). We got to welcome Aleksandra Crapanzano’s beautiful new book, GÂTEAU, into the world (and our kitchens). And to launch financier month - we’ll be making the legendary French baby cakes every which way in October. Today we spend a little time with Frank “Cake Boy” Barron (if only) and his debut book, SWEET PARIS, which is a love letter to the city and an invitation to bake with him in his luminous atelier.
PARIS SWEETS // SWEET PARIS
It isn’t always about me, really, but indulge me for a semantic minute as I muse on the title of my 2002 book, PARIS SWEETS, and Frank’s 2022 book, SWEET PARIS. The same words, two different meanings. PARIS SWEETS is about the sweets that you find in Paris patisseries (with recipes to make them at home). SWEET PARIS is a little of that and a lot of other things too. Arranged by seasons, Frank’s book takes us to his favorite markets, parks and streets, listing his favorite experiences for each season (they’ll become a visitor’s to-do list, for sure). He tells us about the flowers that he chooses for each season. And he tells us the story behind each of his recipes. Some are as American as he is — he left California for Paris with his now-husband in 2012 — while the majority are inspired by French traditional sweets and then spun through Frank’s imagination to emerge fresh. There’s charm and a reason to love both Paris and sweets on every page.
TURNING FALL FRUITS UPSIDE DOWN
Frank’s chapter on l’automne, or autumn, is filled with temptations. I was captivated by Frank’s rendition of the famous opera cake — normally a sleek sharp-edged layer cake glazed in chocolate, Frank’s is a statuesque homage to the Palais Garnier, the grand opera house of Paris. And I was delighted by his small quatre-quarts, like mini pound cakes, served with roasted plum sauce.
But as soon as I saw the word “mirabelle” I knew I’d found the recipe I wanted to try first, the Mirabelle Upside Down Cake. I also knew that I couldn’t truly replicate it in Connecticut. Mirabelles are small yellow plums — they’re the size of large cherries or small walnuts — that are grown in the Northeast of France and celebrated all over the country during the short time that you can find them in markets. They are sweet and become even sweeter when baked. If you find them anywhere, nab them! But Frank, knowing it would be hard for bakers in his homeland to find the fruit, gave two alternatives: Reine Claudes, which are like greengage plums, and Italian prune plums, an American fall staple.
I made the cake with plums and fell in love with it. The caramel mixture — the bottom that becomes the top when you turn the cake upside down — was just sweet enough, and the texture of the cake had a lightness that I really appreciated. It was lovely with the prune plums and I knew immediately that it would be just as lovely with pears or apples. And it was. My ace recipe tester, Mary Dodd, made — and loved — both versions. Would it be great with figs? Yes. And I'm thinking it would be equally good with pineapple. Maybe even with mango.
I’m filing this cake under “Very Play Aroundable” and betting you will, too.
Play and I’ll see you back here Tuesday. Bon week-end!
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FALL UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
Adapted from Sweet Paris: Seasonal Recipes from an American Baker in France by Frank Adrian Barron
GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE YOU START
The pan: Choose a cake pan with 2-inch high sides – the batter will fill the pan. If you don’t have a high-sided cake pan, use a 9-inch springform.
The fruit: Frank made his cake with small mirabelle plums (he used 12 to 15); I made mine with prune plums (and needed 10); and Mary made one cake with pears (she ended up using 3) and one with apples (she used 2 for that cake). It's impossible to give you a precise amount of fruit, so take this as a guide. If you use pears or apples, peel and core them. If you use stone fruit, remove the pits.
The crème fraîche: Of course you should use it if you can get it or if you have time to make it yourself. However, I made the cake with full-fat sour cream and it was still luxurious.
The unmolding: Run a table knife around the edge of the pan before turning the pan over onto a cake plate or stand. If a few pieces of fruit stick to the pan, lift them off the pan carefully with the knife and settle them back onto the top of the cake.
Serves 8-10
INGREDIENTS
For the fruit
1/4 cup (4 tablespoons/56 grams) unsalted butter, melted, plus additional for greasing
1/2 cup (110 grams) firmly packed brown sugar (Frank prefers dark brown sugar)
1/2 teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
Pinch of fine sea salt
Fruit (see above)
For the cake
1 1/4 cups plus 3 tablespoons (181 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder
1/2 teaspoon (2 grams) baking soda
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 grams) fine sea salt
4 1/2 ounces (126 grams) crème fraîche, plus additional for serving (see above)
2 tablespoons (30 ml) whole milk
3/4 cup (12 tablespoons/170 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 teaspoons (10 ml) pure vanilla extract
DIRECTIONS
Make the fruit: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (175 C). Grease and line a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan with parchment paper; set aside (see above).
In a small bowl, whisk together the melted butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, and salt.
Spread the mixture evenly on the bottom of the prepared pan. Arrange the fruit cut side down (or in another attractive way) in an even layer. Fit as many pieces as you can into the pan without overlapping.
Make the cake: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.
In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche and milk; set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or working with a handheld mixer), beat the butter and granulated sugar together on medium-high until pale and fluffy, about 4 minutes. With the mixer on low, add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the bowl with a rubber spatula between additions. Add the vanilla and mix until combined. Add the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with the crème fraîche mixture, mixing until just combined.
Using a rubber spatula, scrape the batter into the cake pan and gently spread to evenly cover the fruit.
Photos: Mary Dodd
Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean and the cake is golden brown.
Transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool for 20 minutes before inverting the cake onto a cake stand or plate. (I ran a table knife around the edges of the pan before inverting it.)
Serve warm with a hearty dollop of crème fraîche.
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