The great anchovy debate!

On the fence about the little fish? Try these two recipes and then decide.

Hello! Hello!

When I started creating recipes and writing about food, I had the habit of starting off negatively. I’d say something like, “You probably don’t like rutabaga,” and then I’d try to convince you of the error of your ways, continuing with a “but” — “but you’ll love it in this dish because blah, blah, blah.” It was a tick probably born of insecurity and one I still find myself returning to, especially when I’m writing about love-it-or-loathe ingredients. Today, the ingredient is anchovies and the urge to acknowledge its divisive nature is strong.

Let’s get this out of the way immediately — Anchovies: Love’em? Loathe’em?

And, if you’re not a fan, are you willing to try?

In the spirit of the remarkable

Alison Roman

, who adores anchovies and probably has a t-shirt that says so, I’m just going to pass over their look, their aroma, their texture, their saltiness and the near impossibility of opening the cans they sometimes come in without spattering oil everywhere, and jump right to the recipes…